Preparing the diecast

• Reference Photos: Make sure correct reference material is on-hand to ensure the accuracy of your conversion. Use these images to confirm which decals need to be removed to properly convert the diecast. Different race weekends may have different sponsors or decal locations!
• Removing Waterslide decals: Typically, the most common type of decals applied on the diecast are waterslide. These can be removed simply by applying a piece of tape over the decal and removing the tape.  Ensure that no other logos are included on the same decal, and if necessary, use an X-acto knife to cut the necessary markings from a larger decal.
• Removing Tampo-printed Markings: use Nail Polish Remover or Fine-Grit Sandpaper for removal. Tampo decals are typically identified by the lack of clear "decal paper" around the markings. Be sure to determine the material, as Acetone-based Nail Polish Remover can remove paint from plastic parts. Additionally, Acetone-based Nail Polish Remover can also remove paint depending on thickness.

Decalling the diecast

• Removing the decal from the paper: Soak the decal in a bowl of water for approximately 1-2 minutes, then use your finger to confirm that the decal is loose from the backing paper.
• Applying the decals:
  • Cotton swabs or tissue paper can be used to soak up any additional water on the paper before application.
  • Gently slide the decal from the packing paper directly onto the diecast. Ensure that the decal does not fold onto itself.
  • Move the decal to the desired location and use the cotton swab/ tissue to absorb remaining water and to better fit the shape of the diecast.

Complex decal applications:

• Use Micro-sol or other decal solvents to help adhere and contour to the shape of the diecast.  Be sure to avoid heavy concentration of solvent which can damage the ink on the decals
• Use a hair dryer to apply heat to the decal to help improve adhesion. This is especially important on decals applied to bare plastic!

Additional Info:
We wanted to touch on some of the various tools that we here at Grand Precision Decals use to provide conversions as accurate as possible!

• Reference Images Without photos to know what the real car looked like, it becomes difficult to accurately convert your model. Some diecast companies make it even harder when the diecast only reflects one or two specific races based on the configuration of the wings and sponsor markings. Typically I will use Google Images and search the name of the car and search for image size of "Large".  One problem with Google Images is that many photos do not have information on which race the image is from, since then I have found since Getty Images has started using larger images and typically have the event information linked to the photo.

• X-acto Knife My go-to tool for cutting original decals for removal and for positioning new decals
  
  
• Tamiya Yellow Tape As this tape is available in multiple thicknesses, it is handy for masking off the sections of decal that need to be cut with a knife. Just be sure to apply the tape on the decal area that is to be removed, and ensure it is not touching any decals that you do not want removed!
  
  
• Acetone-based Nail Polish Remover For Tampo printed logos, where there is no decal film for removal, my go-to is this. Use small amounts and be sure not to touch any other markings as it typically is not repairable.
  
  
• Polish After removing Tampo logos, typically some faint swirls of the remaining color can be seen on the car. Using a polish, such as Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, will help remove these final traces of the original markings.
  
  
• Facial Tissue When applying the new conversion decals, use a facial tissue to remove any remaining water trapped under the decal
  
  
  
• Micro-Sol/Paint Brush/Hair Dryer When applying a decal to a complex shape, applying Microscale's Micro-Sol (or similar setting solvent) with a paint brush will help the decal contour to the body of the car.  After applying, using a hair dryer to apply heat will help the decal fit the curves better. Practice will make perfect with this technique, but make sure to remove any water/air bubbles below the surface of the decal with a tissue to avoid any bubbling on the decal.
  
  I hope that these tools provide as much success in converting as it has for us here at Grand Precision Decals. Through your conversion experiences, what tools have you used with great success?